Nomic Hammers?

Blatant commercial spiel here..so be warned.

This is something I have been doing commercially but generally under the radar for the last 3 years all the while trying to get Petzl to do it themselves. The new Nomic will offer a hammer as an option.

I'll also be making this hammer as a retro fit for all the newest tools and the new picks this coming winter. But no reason to sell your old Nomic. Most of the newest features can be upgraded into your current Nomic including the better umbilical attachment point and hammer.

First experience with the new lower grip pommel is it will also retro fit with a little effort.

This hammer is lighter and better balanced than Petzl's new hammer for the Nomic. I cut new factory picks to fit my hammer. Spare picks for these hammers can also be easily made from the older style (pre winter of '10/'11) Quark picks and a few minutes on a grinder. Nomic pick weights are 62grams. The CT hammer is 34grams. The Petzl Nomic hammer is 65g.

Usnea strigosa

We see this lichen here all the time, only usually without quite so many things on it. The technical name for the things is apothecia. If that's exciting to you, you may want to look here for related technical terms. I spent way too much time there, following links and trying to figure out what was meant when they said something was shaped like a skittle. The candy or a British bowling pin?

Anyway, I finally identified the lichen: Bushy beard lichen; Old man’s beard; Usnea strigosa.

I haven't found a good southern or eastern North American lichen identification site. I was lucky and happened on a page that told me that this "is the only Southern Usnea with large, pale, terminal apothecia."¹

The Ohio Moss and Lichen Association has some good photos, including this one that shows what Usnea strigosa more commonly looks like. But there's no key. Let me know if you find a good lichen site.

-----

¹If you could actually get the pdf file to come up, it might be useful. I had to make do with the hodge-podge cached html version.

Speed on Skis

So a couple of our rangers ran into some guys going for a speed record on the summit last week, they were able to get a brief conversation and snap a photo of them before they took off downhill. According to their clocks they made it from Paradise to the summit and back to Paradise in 4 hours and 19 minutes...which if you aren't familiar with that route means they went really really fast! Check out their full story here. There have been a number of speed ascents over the years but as far as we know Nick and Eric were the first to do it with skis.



It's looking like we are at the start of a spell of nice weather. Lots of fresh snow on the mountain should make for some great climbing and skiing conditions, especially if you hit it early before the sun turns everything to mid-day glop. Visit our route conditions page for recent conditions reports and thanks to Dmitry Shapovalov for a great report of their recent climb of Success Cleaver.

Privite Allyway

This little allyway was blocked off by a big, heavy, iron gate so I assumed it was privite. We did go ahead and take a couple of photos anyway.

Jurassic way from Gretton to Harringworth Lodge

Friday 15 April. 4.7 miles there and back. A little detour on a path up to the right just after the lake (coming from Gretton).



Quite fast, took camera for a few pics in spite of grey weather. But not able to upload them until I install the software.

Laura's last free days

Well I'm sad to report that my faithful climbing partner has decided to become a full time student starting next week. This leaves me well... needing partners. This was her last free week to get out and climb as much as possible, not an easy task given the current weather trends. Today we made the best of things (again) and since she's never been to Rattlesnake Rocks, we decided to hike there and make a day of it. We had fun climbing the short, but challenging routes. Here's a few highlights of Laura involved in some "mixed" action today. (If you look closely there is a wee bit of ice located in some of the cracks) This may be the closest thing Laura gets to winter climbing before school starts. Best of Luck in school Laura, you'll be greatly missed as my daily partner.

Laura making some moves

Lessons Learned

Larwill, Indiana combined 3rd and 4th grades, 1936-37 class. Mom is the 4 child from the left in the top row, she was in the 3rd grade. Two of her classmates are still good friends and they attended the birthday open house for mom's 80th birthday last Saturday.

Larwill, Indiana was (and still is) a small rural community about six miles west of Columbia City. Mom's family had moved there in 1935 and she attended the Larwill School for the rest of her school years. Classes for all grades, 1st through 12th, were held in one building, which was only a few blocks from their home.

Of course, mom learned reading, writing and arithmetic in school, along with history, home economics and social studies, but she was an "average" student, and according to her she didn't excel in anything, except making friends! Mom was the middle of five children and since their home wasn't far from school, it was the natural gathering place for all of their friends.

Along with the book learning, she learned how to do housework and help take care of her younger sister and brother. Life lessons learned through firsthand experience that served her well when she had children of her own after graduating in 1946.

When the time came for her to go to work outside the home, she was more than ready! Her first paying job was working in a factory, Playtime Products, in Warsaw, where they made toy baby buggies. Then my grandmother opened a restaurant in North Webster and mom went to work there. Her social skills came in quite handy while working with the customers and the other employees. In 1964, the restaurant was sold and mom got a job in another factory, North Webster Products. They made electrical wiring harnesses for refrigerators, freezers and other appliances. It wasn't easy work, but she was good at it. The company went through many changes over the years, but mom made it through all the lay-offs and downsizings and retired in 1993 after 29 years of service.

One of the most important lessons I learned from mom and the secret to her success, she says, was flexibility and a willingness to learn. Whenever she was asked if she had ever done a certain task, which she hadn't ever done before, instead of just saying "no" she always said "no, but I can give it a try" and invariably she would do just fine, not always, but most of the time. Many of her co-workers were women and many of them refused to even try a new task but she was always willing. She wasn't a perfectionist, but she always did the best that she could. Another lesson learned.

This post was written for the 48th Carnival of Genealogy whose topic is "Mom, how'd you get so smart?"

Chicken chronicles

The hens have decided to shun their handmade nesting boxes. The only place to lay an egg is in the kitty litter box. It's where all the best chickens go, you know.

I've decided to publish some overly grainy (a.k.a. Enquirer-quality) photographs, since the public deserves to know the full story.


Your reporter arrived late to the scene.
A Leghorn was already in the box, when interlopers appeared.


Ms. Lakenvelder scoops Ms. Dominique.
A recycling flash prevented blow by blow photographic evidence, but proof is visible in the tell-tale tail.


Room for one more?


Why not.
Ms. Lakenvelder's twin sister also arrives on the scene,


and is joined by Ms. Americauna.


No room at the enclosed kitty litter box.
Forced to wait in line.
Nothing to prevent a chorus of vociferous sqawking the whole time though.


The chicken version of "how many people can you cram in a phone booth"?
This week's answer: three.


You're kind of in my way.

What Tan Lines?

thanks to PL for the leg modeling!

This summer I've received some emails from readers asking for suggestions on how to get rid of tan lines from bicycle shorts. The women I ride with sometimes discuss this as well. Some say they actively try to cultivate cycling tan lines, seeing them as a source of pride and part of their identity as road cyclists. Others say they dislike tan lines, because they look unflattering when wearing skirts and bathing suits. For me, it's more about the attention they generate and feeling branded: I've had stares and questions from cyclists and non-cyclists alike that I'd rather avoid.




For those who do not wish to cultivate obvious cycling tan lines, one solution is to alternate bicycle shorts of different lengths. Assuming that you are not a racer who is required to ride in a specific kit, yet ride often enough to justify owning more than one pair of shorts, this method works pretty well. I now own three pairs of shorts, each from a different manufacturer: One hits just above the knee, the other half way up the thigh, and the third somewhere in between. I make sure to rotate them, while also doing my best to regularly apply sun screen. The result is a very gradual colour-fade from the knees up instead of a harsh tan line. The leg model above is sporting a similar look, though a little more crisp than mine.




If you've already got the tan lines and need to quickly get rid of them (say, for an event), try makeup. Buy liquid makeup in a shade that matches the tanned area and apply it to the untanned part - reducing the density as you move upward. A friend of mine did this when she had to wear a short bridesmaid's dress (the bride said the tan lines would ruin her wedding photos). It works, though will smear on the underside of your hem a bit. Spray tan would also work if you need the effect to last longer, though makeup tends to look more natural.




What's your take on tan lines from cycling shorts? Are you bothered by them, pleased by them, or does it not matter? I admit that I've identified other cyclists by their tan lines... though I try not to stare!

Culverts, Press, and Poetry

Isn't this cool? Check out these very, very, large metal culverts right next to the road at Kautz Creek. Now try to imagine the road going OVER these culverts (they're supposed to handle future Kautz floods). BTW, this photo partially explains why the official word on the road to Longmire states, "probably [open] in early May." If you are wondering, there are less specific dates for Paradise. Also, news about the park reopening is gaining attention from the New York Times; they discussed strategies to fix the mess (but the story hasn't changed).

Recently, the Seattle Times waxed eloquently about the exclusivity of sleeping in the National Park Inn (NPI) at Longmire this winter. According to the author, visitors with highly coveted reservations at the lodge will be staying at

"one of the most exclusive hotels in the world, the 25-room National Park Inn... this is the only place for a traveler to sleep and enjoy indoor plumbing in the park's largely unpeopled wilderness."

The article goes on to slightly glorify the privilege, but this is not quite as exclusive as the paper might have you believe. As it turns out, climbers have been on the mountain too, a subtle revelation that is slowly spreading across the Puget Sound area. It all started when a few local pilots noted larger teams on the Muir Snowfield and at Camp Muir while zooming by the peak! Then there were rumors of guided clients who made it to Ingraham Flats... (Seattle IS a small town you know). So the word is out: those who booked trips with a concessioned guide service for this spring will be shuttled into the park like the visitors to the NPI at Longmire.

Post climbing ranger "employment:" On the creative writing front, our very good friend and poet, Mimi Allin, was buzzed by the Seattle Times and KIRO Radio. Mimi (former Camp Schurman climbing ranger) has been implicated as the Poetess at Green Lake! Those who walk, run, skip and/or bike around Green Lake may have laid eyes upon her little desk labeled P O E T (look for the red umbrella when it's raining). The desk (and Mimi) can be found every Sunday (since last July) on the NW corner of the lake from 9 to 5. At this very desk, Mimi channels artistic discussion around creative poet vortices (or something like that). Unlicensed and unpermitted, the Poetess at Green Lake has a poem for you..Techncial Sidebar: Mimi walks 4 miles each way to her post. She has only left early once, due to a snowstorm. If you're in Seattle, achieve a creative boost to your life by visiting with Ms. Mimi Allin.

Gunflint Trail Moose

Taken today just past the Seagull Guard Station near the end of the Gunflint Trail. Came around the corner and there was this Moose, standing right in the middle of the road. I pulled over to the side of the road, turned off the truck, and proceeded to watch this Moose for several minutes as it hung out on the road, keeping an eye on me and every now and then bending down to lick salt off the road. This was a nice bonus to an already terrific day!

Roses are Red ...and Welded in Steel

While I enjoy receiving flowers on special occasions, it's always a little sad when they wilt. So for our anniversary a couple of weeks ago, I asked my husband for a steel rose from Spooky Bikes. With Valentine's Day coming up, I thought I'd mention it and post some pictures. These beautiful roses will last, and they make for a lovely way to mark an occasion while supporting a local artisan.I love mine; it is even nicer in person than in pictures.







Spooky Bikesare somewhat of a cult manufacturer, making road, cyclocross and mountain bikes in Bellows Falls, Vermont. I met them at theNew England Builders Balla few months ago and had a chance to see a few of their bikes. The steel roses are a side project, welded by Chris Traverse ("...alone with my cat and my coffee making roses that will make other people smile...").The majority of proceeds will benefit theSunset Ranch BMX Parkin Western Massachusetts, which Chris established and continues to grow.






The roses are made of a mild steel, one petal at a time. The petals, hand-tooled leaves and braided weld-wire stem are then TIG-welded. They are available in a raw finish, or dipped in bright red acrylic paint.My rose is the red-dipped version. Only the tips of the petals are dipped in paint, still leaving sections closer to the base raw. The bare steel and the rainbow rings around the welds contrast nicely with the liquid look of the red. It is a dramatic, visually textured combination. The appearance of the flower is natural and organic, not cartoony.






There is variation in the shape of each petal, each stem, each flower.As it ages, there will be increasing natural colour variation.The steel looks delicate, but feels rather strong.






The roses are available as single flowers ($33), vines ($85), and dozen roses bouquets($250), in both the raw and the red-dipped finish. Order soon in you want yours to be made in time for Valentines Day. Delight your darling and support our local bicycling craftsmen. A beautiful combination.




Says welder Chris Traverse: "The look on my friends faces when they pull into the trails to see what's new to ride is the same look on people's faces when they open up one of my roses." Chris has had an interesting history. Read his full statementhere.

Zamberlan 4000 Eiger Ice boot...

A few years ago at Winter OR I stumbled across a boot company called Zamberlan. Honestly I can't remember if I had heard of them prior. May be in Europe some time but I simply don't remember now. Friend Jonathon Miller and fellow guides at the show really liked their Zamberlan bootsand tried in vain to get me hooked up with Zamberlan that winter,





As much as I really wanted to try the Zamberlan boots I simply couldn't get hold of a pair. Any pair that I wantedto climb in anyway. Hiking boots that hold no interest for me were easy. Alpine boots? Not happening back then.



Which was really too bad from my perspective. A quick inspection made me thinkthey wouldbe GREAT climbing boots. May be better than what I was in at the time. Since my originalefforts trying to get the boots (any of the 3 models I wanted) the La Sportiva Batura has gone through three distinct models of the same boot!



http://www.zamberlanusa.com/catalog/?lang=en&pg=cat&idcat=1



Late last spring about in the middle of the traditionalAlaska Range climbing season I got my hands on all three of the Zamberlans I had been lusting over for years now. Technical boots all, the models listed her by warmth (warm to warmest) are The Paine GTX 3000, The Eiger 4000 and theirfull on double boot, the Denali 6000.(yes, detailed reviews on the Paine and Denali will follow shortly)

It was worth the wait.




"Some history? Zamberlan is a family run company that still makes it's boots in Italy after 80
years.

Giuseppe Zamberlan, the grandfather, started the activity right after the end of 1st World War From simple shoe repair he moved on to footwear production, driven both by necessity and by his big passion for his local mountain range, the Piccole Dolomiti. He understood the poor performance of the early existing solesmade of leather with iron studs - and he both shared and supported the revolutionary ideas of Vitale Bramani, founder of Vibram, who was studying and developing rubber soles at the time.

Fast forward....



Now it is the turn of the third generation. Marco and Maria now manage the family company.

Like their forefathers, they too inherited the enduring love and enjoyment of the mountains and for their work, so closely related to that enjoyment, which takes them through all stages of designing, manufacturing, testing and distributing the most comfortable footwear for this purpose.



Zamberlan is still managed and run by the family."



My take on all that? It is important or I wouldn't be writing about it. The Europeans don't take their own heritage lightly. The guys (and gals)building crampons, axes or boots now for generations (and I don''t mean time) but new generations of their own families actually care about the products with their names on them and the people that will eventually use them. When your Grandfather was an alpinist 50+ years ago and put his name on the Company, you take your responsibilities to the currentcommunity seriously.



At least that is my perspective for a limited experience.



What does all that mean to some hard charger in Canmore, Boulder, Chamonix or Seattle who is looking to buy a new boot to up his alpine game?



For me? That means the company is likely to be a little conservative. But when they do bring a new product to market it is likely well tested and well worn prior. Chances are you can bet on it delivering as promised.



So lets get on the the Zamberlan Eiger 4000.



As you might imagine the Eiger 4000 is pointed directly at the alpinist wanting to do technical routes on the 4000M peaks of Europe. The North Face of the Eiger as a perfect example of those goals.



First up? Might as well look at weight.



Batura 2.0 2# 2oz (current version)

Scarpa Phantom Ultra 2# 3.5oz (35.5oz) /
1006g

La Sportiva Batura 1st gen. 2# 7oz / 1106g

Zamberlan Paine 2#
7oz

Mammutt Extreme Nordwand 2# 7oz

Scarpa Phantom
Guide 2# 7.5oz / 1120g

Salewa Pro Gaiter 2# 8oz

Zamberlan Eiger 6000 2# 8oz

La Sportiva Batura 2nd gen. 2# 9oz / 1170g



Yep,it is within an ounce of the heaviest single fully gaitered boot I have used. And I climbed some the hardest mixed I have done recently in a heavier boot, the 1st gen Batura. The Eiger 8000 fits my feetmuch, much better today than any version of the Batura including the Batura 2.0. I'm happy to give up the 12oz per pair and the high tech advantages of the 2.0 for a better fit in the Eiger 6000. That is a decision only you can make. And only then if it makes any sense to you.









As I mentioned in the previous Mammut review weight is not the end all of picking out a boot. Fit is. I repeat it over and over again. Fit is what rules hereand out shines anything within reason for weight. If a extra pound on your feet kills your ambitions in the mountains it is time to train harder.



Knowing all too well just how important weight on your feet really means. If you start comparing the level of support and warmthall these boots they are very similar yet distinct for how they fit my feet. Your fitwillmost likely vary from mine. It bears repeating...



The Eiger (Zamberlan in general I think) runs a narrow heel and a medium tight mid foot with a nice open box toe. Even on the Paine 3000, which is a low profile cold weather boot, uses the same last from what I can tell. It is a great last for my feet. Some where between the La Sportiva and a Scarpa last is my take on it. Both of which I think are on the narrow side.



But like anything as complicated as a boot there are other reasons why these boots fit me well. The lacing and ankle joint articulation here is exceptional imo. And they are simple.











Classic example of how to do a set of laces poorly is the Batura. Any Batura. What should have gotten betterover time has gotten worse IMO. Seems like who ever the designer is on that project has nothing similar to my feet in his test studies and focus groups. I have to simply skip the lock lace on the 2.0 to use it. Sad as I would climb in them more if they had a better (more simple) lace system.



Love the Batura, really dislike the lacing system. "Boots"..that design for me. Pun intended of course :)



My favorite boots like the Phantom Series have a simple lace system. And they fit. The Eiger does as well. Even better I like the 3 sets of lock lace in series on the upper cuff of the Eiger. The Phantom Series mimicsthe same lace design. I understand why but I don't like the nasty, sharp and narrow laces you need to use those same lock laces.



Good comparison I think with thePhantom Guide and the Ultra (one ofmy all time favorites) here with the Eiger 6000. Think of the Eiger as a very warm (more insulated gaiter) and more supportive fabric in the boot proper. (which is very obvious when comparing the Guide or Batura)



As a far as support it goes like this...stiff to soft. The Eiger is built like others in this groupusing SuperFabric for the boot itselfand a combination of SuperFabricand a fully breathable neoprene like material for thegaiter. The Eiger 6000 offers the most ankle support. The Phantom guide is in the middle and the Batura the least amount of ankle support. If you are doing a lot of really gymnastic mixed moved. may be the Batura... if they fit. Guide is in between. I've used them or their slightly lighter little brother the Phantom Ultraeverywhere I climb. Get the Eiger if you can use the extra support around the ankle.









The Eiger's extra support inthe ankleis the boot I wantto climb water fall and alpine ice with given a choice. It fits me well. I think it is a bump in warmth on the other boots just by the quality of the gaiter. But I wouldn'tbuy the Eiger just for that observation.






Nice rounded toe box with a closely cropped sole withthe huge RiRi zipper and velcro closure shown.





Detail for a additioanlgaiter hold down loop if it is ever required.





Draw cord close on the top of the longer than usual insulated integral gaiter.




Speaking of the gaiter...the big teeth in thezipper doesn't inspireconfidence to anyone who climbed in the original Batura. That huge RiRi Aqua zipper of similar style that lost teeth on a regular basis from YKK and theBatura. But this one may be different. Ifrankly don't know either way. But no worries. Zamberlan figuredout the rest and the best answer a while ago to solve a broken zipper. We (my climbing partners and I) figured it out in '75, Zippers are OK...just back them up with some thick sticky Velcro! La Sportiva finally caught on....but none too soon with the 2.0.



I suspect much of the6oz between the Batura 2.0 and the Eiger 6000 can be traced directly to thedifferences in gaiter. Eiger 6000 has a heavier zipper, heavier gaiter fabric, and the gaiteris insulated not just Goretex. More durable, and easier to usezipper flapno question and almost a full inch taller. All good things IMO.



The Batura 2.0 advantages include a good size wear patch on the inside of the boot's gaiter. I wouldn't kick it to the curb it it fits you. It is also a nice boot. Just an easy one to make comparisons with here.



Seriously it all boils down to fit. How the boot fits you.









Zamberlan also decided on a full depth lug sole. SameVibram the Mammut Eiger boot uses. No complaints on how this sole is closelytrimmed however. It is tight all the way around. Whichonly underlines for me how a boot's details can make it just that much better and easier to climb in.



How stiff is it?









If you look at the mid sole material I suspect it is the same as La Sportiva used in the original Nepal and Batura and still uses in the Trango Extreme. So it is stiff. Thatmid sole would eventually brake down iin theLa Sportiva versions. Which is why you see the move to a carbon mid sole these days by many of the boot makes. Remember I mentioned conservative? The Eiger has a solid synthetic mid sole and a proprietary toe and heelcrampon fixture. Which are well thought out. Some other brands are not IMO. Between the Vibram sole and the stiff mid sole is a EVA foam layer for cushion. Nice combo and a stiff (rigid) sole that is exceptional on steep ice and technical rock. As one would expect from this type of boot and the intendeduse.



Along those lines the crampon attachment is solid and easy to use. Lots of detailing here by Zamberlan that no one else has copied. Seems like a no brainier but also seems everyone has there own idea on how the toe and heel should be built to take a crampon. One wonders at times if the boot makes have actually ever seencrampons. Obviously Zamberlan's boot makershave.









Sizing?

The boots come in Euro full sizes only. Which caused me some early issues in sizing. I typically wear a size 45 in everything. But ordering an unknown boot I tend to be conservative myself and go bigger since I am so close between a 45 and a 46. Generally either will work. I just wanted to see and review the boots. No clue if I would want to climb in a pair past that no matter how cool I thought they looked.



So the 46s show up in all three boots. Allfit well enough but all were just a little bigger than I would have preferred. So I sent two pair of the46s back anda new set of45s arrived shortly after.Then prior to the follow up,life got in the way for several months. Back at it now with a new ice season just around the corner.



Checking boot fit again this week for the review, it's just asI had originally thought. The 46 is pretty big on me. Usable but bigger than I really like. The 45s are a tight 45 for my typically 45 foot. Bradat ProLite gear in Bozeman suggested a 46 for my 11.5/12 foot. And Isuspect he is correct in that thinking. Most won't want to climb ice in a thin sock and such a tight fit as I have with my pair ofEigers in a 45. But I like it. Enough so that I have been climbing in them simply because it is one of the better fitting boots I own.



My point here is that the Zamberlan is a viableoption to the typical Scarpa/La Spotive fit. And worth a try if they have a boot style you think appropriate for you. They have three alpine boots I really like :)



Unsual for me to list retailers but the only two online retail/brick and mortor stores that have an inventory of the Zamberland boots are below. I know the guys there and both helped me sourcing the Zamberland boots. So your are in good hands. Ask for Brad in Bozeman orEric and Jonathonin Telluride. I'll have reviews of the Zamberlan Paine and Denali up soon if you need warmer or lighter weight alpine boots. Both worth a look as well.



http://www.prolitegear.com/



http://www.jagged-edge-telluride.com/

Harry Hamilton Dunfee and His Unnamed Twin Brother

This is the third example of the results of using the "foil technique" for deciphering hard to read tombstones mentioned in a previous post. Here we're looking at the grave stone for the twin sons born to William and Catherine (Jones) Dunfee. The marker is in the Masonic Section of Greenhill Cemetery, Columbia City, Indiana.

The worn, nearly illegible grave marker for twin sons of William and Catherine Dunfee. It faces west and is in the shade most of the day.

The grave marker "wrapped" in aluminum foil and rubbed down. While still not quite totally legible, this technique brings out some of the details, including the two doves at the top of the marker. The inscription at the bottom (beneath the parents names) still is not legible and some of the numbers are hard to read.

According to his obituary, Harry Hamilton Dunfee died on August 26, 1871 reportedly four years, five months and ten days old. If that is correct, then Harry was born on March 16th 1867. His unnamed twin brother died on March 17th 1867, which means he lived for only one day.

However, an earlier transcription of the cemetery states that Harry was 4 years 5 months and 5 days old. And looking at the grave stone, the number of days does appear to be a 5 or maybe a 2. If a 5, that would put their birth date at March 21, 1867. Given that the infant twin died on March 17th 1867 I am inclined to believe the information in Harry's obituary, which was published in the Columbia City Post on Wednesday September 6, 1871.

=+==+==+=

Died, Harry Hamilton, son of William H. and Catharine Dunfee, at Columbia City, August 26th, aged four years, five months and ten days. Little Harry was a bright treasure in the family, and loved by all who knew him. His frail form giving evidence of his unfitness for earth caused father, mother, brother and sisters to lead him tenderly along the path of life, to him made so short, and upon him lavish all of the kindness which love and sympathy could command. Though so very young he seemed to feel the force and intent of his last illness and as if met by some kind angel at the river of death, said, "Mother, I want to go home." Those only who have been called upon to give back to him who gave such treasures can fully sympathize with this bereaved family. Could they but look across that mysterious river, they would find no cause for weeping from that side of the stream. We would say weep not for such, did we not know that the tear goes far toward sweetening that bitter cup.

Gunks Routes: Drunkard's Delight (5.8-) & Morning After (5.8-)

(Photo: my partner V just after the cruxy start of Drunkard's Delight.)



I recently changed my opinion regarding Drunkard's Delight (5.8-).



My first experience on the route, this past April,was kind of a debacle. I was still pretty fresh off my broken ankle and I was trying to take it easy. So I didn't have any 5.8s in my plans. But we did Bloody Mary (5.7) and I really enjoyed it. For the first time since I broke the ankleIwas feelingpretty good on the rock. And when we got back to our packs after topping out I saw both Drunkard's and Morning After (5.8-) were sitting open, and I couldn't resist.



I looked them both over, and while I knew Drunkard's was famously cruxy right at the start, it looked to me like the pro wasn't bad. Morning After, on the other hand, looked very difficult to protect. I read in the guidebook about a piton somewhere up there, but I couldn't seeany pinsfrom the ground, and the pitch looked like it had few if any other placements in the first 25 or 30 feet.



So I decided togive Drunkard's a try.Imoved up two steps andplaced two pieces right away, a red C3 in the vertical crack system to the left of the greasy, chalk-covered holds, and then a littlepurple TCU in thethin horizontal that runs just above those greasy holds. (One puny cam for each of my half ropes.) Then I edged gently to the right, put my hands on those greasy holds, put my feet on the dime edges beneath, and attemptedan awkward high-step up.



Predictably, I fell. Both little cams held.I was safely off the ground with two feet of clearance. But in the little fall I'd hit my bad ankleon the wall and it didn't feel good. I feared I'd sprained it.



I was pissed off-- Ithought I'd just about made the move. And I also felt the move was really much too hard for a 5.8-.



So I started to try again, but then realized I was being an idiot. Falling from ten feet off the deck on microcams was not in my post-surgery recovery plan. I was supposed to be taking it easy. "Why am I doing this?" I asked myself aloud.



Just then another pair came up, hoping to do the route. I gave them my blessing and we retreated. And then I watched their leader sketch through the move in pretty much the same way I had attempted it.



I limped away from Drunkard's Delight feeling defeated, and hating bouldery starts.



Later, I learned thatI was doing it wrong. Those greasy, chalked up holds right in front of your face when you start the route? Those are sucker holds. Don't use them for your hands. The route starts just to the left, and you can step up one more time before moving right and never touch the sucker holds with your hands. Use those holdsfor your feet. But notyour hands. It's much easier.



A week ago I was up in the Gunks with V and he mentioned that he'd been wanting to get on Drunkard's. I was thrilled to let him lead it and see how it went this time. I gave him my gear beta for the first two gear placements and advised him to skip the sucker holds. And he cruised through it, placing gear where I did and a ton more following the low crux as well (as you can see in the photo above). I believe after the red C3 (out of the frameto the left) anda purple C3 (first piece on the pink rope), he'splaced two nuts and he's working on a third.



When it was my turn to follow the pitch, I found it so much easier than I did in April.I employedthe additional step up before heading right. It's still a balancy couple moves, but not bad. The rest of the pitch features good face climbing, pretty thoughtful most of the way, easing a bit asthe routetrends slightly left to the ledge beneath the break in the large roof. I now recognize that this is a great pitch. I would gladly lead it tomorrow.



There's a pathetic, possibly dying tree with some slings at the end of the first pitch; I'd recommend building a gear anchor.



(Photo: just past the roof on pitch two of Drunkard's Delight.)

Pitch two features the biggest 5.6 roof in the Gunks. It's nearly a body length in size. But no worries, this is a super-juggy fun time. This roof is much easier than the roofs on MariaandShockley's Ceiling. There's a great placement for a threaded sling right in the middle of the business (see photo above), and then it's just an ocean of jugs until you're past the roof. There are many, many more holds than you need. After the roof, the pitch trends a little left and up to the GT Ledge on cruiser climbing.

Once you reach the GT Ledge, there's a good tree from which a two-rope rappel will get you down. If you have only one rope, you have several options: a short walk climber's left on the GT Ledge will get you to the bolts above Kama Sutra, from which you can get down in two single-rope rappels. Or if you walk to the right, there is a rap tree above Rusty Trifle from which you can get down in two single rope raps, using another slung tree halfway down.Finally, you can do the final pitch of Drunkard's Delight, which ascends the obvious 5.4 corner above the belay tree on the GT Ledge. (I haven't tried it.)



(Photo: pitch one of Morning After.)

After we had such a positive experience on Drunkard's, I thought I should give Morning After another look. Andthis timeit looked to me like a reasonable lead. I still couldn't see the piton, but I thought I could tell where it was supposed to be, and it seemed like there was gear nearby. The rest of the way seemed protectable.



Pitch one of Morning After features nice face climbing. The crux moves, which are right after the piton, are not as hard as the low moves on Drunkard's Delight. It's a few moves up from the ground before any pro appears, ina thinvertical slot formed by the little right-facing corner just before the piton. I placed a great little nut in this slot, and then after moving up again a good cam. Then, after stepping up so your feet are even with the piton, you should be able to place another piece in an awkward, flaring pod that opens downward. I worked a gray Alien into this slot, and while I thought it would hold, this was the one piece of gear about which I had my doubts. In order to work it into the slot, I had to place it at a rather strange angle. I should have tried a tricam.



After one more thin step up, you're through the crux. The pitch then angles left through easier territory to some right-facing flakes, then back right to the multi-forked tree that also marks the end of pitch one of Bloody Mary. You can belay at the tree, but you'llhave amuch more comfortable belay stance if you build a gear anchorusing the great cracks in the wall behind the tree.



Pitch two is rated 5.7. It looks like it's going to be a roof problem pitch but it's really another face-climbing pitch. From the belay the pitch climbs up into a corner to the right, then around the corner and up onto the face. From the belay stance you can see a piton at the lip of the overhang, telling you exactly where to go. The climbing here is a littlesteep and exposed but the holds are great. The crux of thepitch comes later, in a thin section right after aperfect horizontal slot with an angle piton. Put in a cam to back it up and you're set.



I regret that we didn't have time for pitch three, as it was getting dark. I hear it's a high quality 5.8 pitch. but based on the first two pitches alone I'd sayMorning After is a great climb. It doesn't have any world-class moments but it features consistent thoughtful moves.



From the GT Ledge you can descend with a single two-rope rappel from the Drunkard's Delight tree,or use any of the single-rope options listed above.