Bishop Again

Bishop Again, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

Here's a view up the trail on Bishop Peak taken a few weeks ago during a period of stormy weather. The mountain's chaparral is getting nice and green.

Kangaroo Temple ..

Weather wasn't great, but we managed to summit in a long day. No real issues during the day other than some rain showers passing through. We stopped for the first shower, but climbed right through the following. The approach was a little difficult to follow through the talus fields, but it didn't seem to slow us down that much. We did don crampons for the snow up to Kangaroo Pass, but they did not seem necessary. (All these minor 'issues' seem to add up.) Slightly off route on the first pitch caused an intermediate belay. Then smooth route finding on the rest of the climb. The step around move was not as intimidating as I thought it would be, but it is never comfortable climbing without solid hand holds. We introduced an extra rap to get to the summit rap anchors, and found the descent route description to be somewhat off. ("Two double 50m raps to the packs.") The rap from the summit is a single 60m and the second rap is a double 60m back to the notch. Overall, a fun climb on decent rock, despite the rain.

Summit shot (photo by Julie Labrecque)

For more pics, click here.

Jessica's pics here.

California Grape

A cluster of wild California grapes found on a vine growing in Las Trampas.

Enchantments Traverse

After a weather delay, we were finally able to do the Enchantments Traverse. We spent the day up in mountain goat country. That area is full of snowfields, steams, awesome lakes, granite boulders, slabs and peaks. With our side trip to Little Annapurna, it ended up being an 18 mile hike. The blisters should heal up in about a week :)



At about 2 hours into the hike, we arrived at Colchuck Lake.



A couple of hours later, we made it to the upper basin and started seeing mountain goats.



Then we ran into a few well-camouflaged Rock Ptarmigans.





We couldn't resist standing on the collapsed snow cave.



Ron and Doug ontop of 8,440' Little Annapurna. Mt. Stuart and Dragontail Peak in the background.



Prusik Peak, Mount Temple and several of the alpine lakes.



Little Annapurna as seen from Perfection Lake.




Some people say that this is the most beautiful place in Washington State. We've been to some amazing places. I can think of several that are close, but none better!

Crud Road Racer Fenders

My long-suffering Francesco Moser roadbikeis now sporting some fenders. A 1970s racing bike that originally came with tubulars, the frame has very tight clearances, and the rear brake bridge is particularly low. Even with 23mm tires it will not fit conventional fenders. That is why I wanted to try the Crud Road Racers - described as "mudguards for race bikes with minimum clearances." These fenders are rated to fit bikes with 4mm of clearance under the brake bridge. The Moser has just barely that.






Crud is an English company, and according to the packaging information the fenders are manufactured in Yorkshire, UK. Crud has recently become a sponsor, but the fenders pictured are mine and not a complimentary sample. My discovery of the Road Racers is owed to local randonneur Pamela Blalock, who uses them on her main brevet bike and prefers them to other fenders she's tried. Pamela describes the Cruds as highly durable, easy to install and remove, and extremely lightweight - a combination of characteristics that appealed to me. On a pure roadbike with narrow tires, I do not want permanent fenders. But I do want the option of installing them on occasion. While temporary clip-ons exist, they are flimsy and do not provide adequate coverage. The appealing thing about Crud is that they are real, full coverage fenders with the same easy on/off versatility.






Being entirely unfamiliar with Crud fenders to start with, it took us some time to understand how they are put together and what the installation procedure is. There is a brief instructions manual and an online video that might be a good idea to watch before starting. But once you know it's done, I would say the process should take 15 minutes tops.






The installation does not require any tools, and it does not require the hand strength to use real tools. Everything is affixed by hand using moderate pressure, with a combination of the plastic bolts, zip ties and rubber bands included in the kit.





The fenders are modular - the blade in 3 parts, plus the stays - making them easy to store and transport.






To install the fenders, the fork/stay attachment points are first installed using the double rubber bands provided. The fender is then partially assembled, slid under the brake bridge, and then the stays are attached to these points.






This is the attachment point for under the brake bridge. On some bikes it might be necessary to deflate the tire or remove the wheel to do this.






And here is the screw connecting the different parts of the blade.






Zipties are used to affix the fender to the brake bridge.






And also to affix the rear fender to the seat tube, above the front derailleur.





At the point where the fender attaches to the seat tube, there are two sets of holes that the zip-tie can go through, and we managed to tear one of them when adjusting the fender, so be aware. This point of attachment should be the last step, after the fender's position is set.







This part of the fender provides extra coverage. The clearances are tight here and it's close, but does not interfere with the derailleur.





As part of the installation,Crud provides these fuzzy adhesive pads to guard the tire from rubbing the fender directly.






Here they are peaking out from the sides.




The rear of the front fender is very close to my toe, but there does not seem to be overlap with my feet strapped in.





The front part of the front blade is a little skimpy compared to the rest of the fenders, but otherwise the coverage they provide is excellent.






Aesthetically, I think the Cruds look elegant and appropriate on a racy roadbike. When fitting bikes like this with fenders, the classic ones don't really look right and the clip-on ones are extremely ugly. To my eye, these look just right. And if you want to make them fancy, they can even be painted.





The clearance under the rear brake bridge on my Moser is only borderline adequate for these fenders and I am still deciding whether it's a good idea to use them regularly. But I will definitely use them on my new roadbike, where the clearances will be sufficient.



If the fit is right, I think the design is great for road/racing bikes that have tight clearances and no eyelets, or where you simply do not want the commitment of metal fender installation. While I can't speak for the fenders' durability at this stage, I am pleased withtheir full coverage,easy installation and removal, light weight, and subdued appearance. More pictures here.

Beach Scenes

A few more images from a wonderful day at the beach! Anastasia Island, St. Augustine, Florida. November 30, ...

And, if it is any consolation to those of you "up North", the high temperature for the past three days has been about 60 degrees...

Blue & Moon

Two annual vines are growing on the NE fence, winding themselves onto twine that was threaded through some metal eyelets. The individual flowers last just a day, but keep coming for a long time. The white one is Moon Vine, Ipomoea alba, opening at night and scented. The blue one is Clitoria ternatea, usually called Butterfly Pea or Blue Pea Vine, which opens in the daytime, but was still intact as the moon vine opened.

Internet Connection sees 2nd ascent

Yesterday I made plans to climb with my friend and health/rehab advisor, Andy Shriner and his friend Brad from Morgantown, WV. Andy is a motivated rock and ice climber who moved to Morgantown from Cincinnati, OH this past year. Andy has been chomping at the bit to get out on the local ice I've told so many stories about. Actually Andy is fortunate to be climbing any ice this season after having been caught in an avalanche at the base of Pinnacle Gully in NH earlier this winter. Luckily he walked (limped) away with experience, a banged up knee, and a story to tell. Laura, my girlfriend/climbing partner decided to take a rest day Sunday, so I took a long shot and called Tom Thomas, a climbing friend from here in SWPA to see if he wanted to join our crew. I figured he'd already made plans with others and was going to decline. Either way I know he loves harder mixed climbs and called to invite him. The phone conversation went something like this... Hey Tom it's Tim, what's up? TOM: Tim, great to hear from you. I've been climbing a lot, like the last 6 days. ME: Awesome, glad you've been getting out. Want to climb some cool mixed stuff tomorrow? TOM: HELL YEAH! Where and what time do you want to meet? ME: How about Valley Dairy in Connellsville at 9:30? TOM: Perfect, see you in the morning... What do I need to bring? Never mind, I'm coming with you, who knows what we'll be getting into, I'll bring lots of shit for anything! Cool...




So the day was set. We met at the SWPA climber meeting spot of Valley Dairy Restaurant in Connellsville. Introductions were made and we enjoyed a delicious breakfast telling climbing tales and getting stoked for the day ahead. After breakfast we went outside to pile into vehicles to head for the crag. I followed Tom to his car to help shuttle his gear over to my car for departure and I received my first glimpse as to what Tom meant by "I'll bring lots of shit for anything." Let me just say, he was truly prepared. In addition to a normal "kit", his car contained multiple boots, ropes, racks and bin full of pins, bolts, shuts, drill, etc... Kudos Tom for some true climbing preparation! Although we didn't use much of your massive pile this outing, we'll be needing it for establishing new test pieces when things come back in.

Andy and Tom getting ready for the long approach

We made the short 10min. drive to the South Connellsville Rod and Gun club from the restaurant. Everyone was amazed as we pulled into the shooting range and the ice appeared in front of us. The Pistol Whipped Wall was looking even better than a few days prior. As much as I want to get on these they getting plenty of sun and were about ready to crash down as we were leaving. More for future outings as usual (not a bad thing in my eyes).

The Pistol Whipped Wall, before the sun

We walked down range to check out the lines and develop a game plan. Everyone was stoked with the appearance of the climbs and we opted to climb in the Internet Connection area. We went back to the car and loaded up what was needed for the days events (a very nice luxury at The Gun Club).After packing up and walking back over to the climbs, Tom was debating whether to get on Internet Connection for a send or just top tope it. With 6 consecutive days of climbing behind him, I could easily understand his serious debate. Internet Connection WI5 M7is an intimidating line that starts with overhanging moves and a heel hook off the ground to get established on thin ice which is followed by many heady and powerful moves all the way to the finish. I'm not sure I'd want to get on it without feeling reasonably fresh. After discussion with the group and himself aloud, Tom opted to tie in and give it a go since it has only formed twice since 2007.

Tom and Brad weighing the options

Good thing he did... Tom put on an impressive display of climbing, both mental and physical. He inched his way up the line through sections of delicate moves, followed by powerful moves that involved verbal displays that would make Chris Sharma proud. In the end Tom put in effort and got the job done. He successfully sent the line becoming the 2nd ascentionist since Laura and I first sent the line back in 2007. Here's a photo recap of Tom sending the line while being belayed by Brad.

Mixed start to thin ice

Exceptionally fat ice through this section

Nearing the top of the "Gully"

An airy, overhanging traverse to thin ice

Tom Thomas says "You really have to try this"

Working up delicate terrain

Great work on a proud send, Tom Thomas on Internet Connection WI5 M7

After Tom's great send, Brad who is relatively new to ice, but a seasoned, veteran outdoor athlete and longtime New River Gorge local; had the opportunity to second this exciting climb. Brad put in great efforts and made his way up the line. With a little practice and experience Brad will be a sending machine as well. Here's a few photos that Tom snapped of Brad going up after his climb.

Brad on Internet Connection, photo T.T.

Brad on Internet Connection, photo T.T.

Brad on Internet Connection, photo T.T.

After watching Tom lead Internet Connection, Andy and I walked over to climb the Alpine Ascent Gully M4 in the fattest conditions I've ever seen. This normally boney line reminiscent of the 2nd pitch of the Black Dike, had fat ice on it. Andy took the sharp end and led this short, but sweet line up to the ledge. From there we dropped a top rope on a rare former I've eyed over the years. We all took turns trying this new line and having a great day filled with sunshine. Despite my newly injured right shoulder, I managed to join the fun and climbed Internet Connection and the top route line without hurting myself further. I even managed to get some more mileage on my Lowa Ice Comp GTX "fruit boots." It was a great day with friends. Tom snagged the 2nd ascent of Internet Connection, Andy and Brad swung picks into some of the best SWPA ice of the season and I had the luxury of a fun day with some good friends.

One of the many options at The Gun Club yesterday, photo T.T.

But, the story doesn't end there... Long time friend and local legend, Ray Burnsworth showed up with his pal "Stink" the dog. I called him early Sunday telling him of our "crew" heading out to the club and invited him to come hang out. He showed up and met the guys hanging out and helping to guard us from those coming to shoot and not seeing us on the wall downrange. Thanks Rayman for keeping us alive from additional dangers most ice climbers don't have to consider... Well there's a story after the story. Ray not only had to protect us today, but another friend of his. "Ig" Read Ray's recap of our climbing day and his additional craziness on his Wildfilm Blog.

Local icon Ray Burnsworth, "don't mess with IG"

Still on the Road...

I had a great time at the Joslin Reunion. A nice little group of 26 devoured a catered traditional Thanksgiving dinner the Friday after Thanksgiving. They came from Virginia, Alabama, Indiana, Louisiana, New Mexico and, of course, Missouri. We all stayed at the same motel in Springfield which had a poolside atrium where we gathered most of the time. Kudos to Linda and Kathy for all their time and effort in making the arrangements.

A Joslin Reunion wouldn't be complete without an excursion to some historic family site. One of the places we visited was the area where Virgil Newton Joslin was born on February 21, 1891 “in a tent on the Carry farm in Polk County, Missouri, 12 miles from Bolivar, 4 miles from Dunnegan Springs, 6 miles from Fair Play, while his folks were making a trip by covered wagon.” Virgil is a son of Luther Marion Joslin who is a brother to my 2nd Great Grandmother Malissa Mariah Joslin Brubaker Bower.

George and Jim Joslin, sons of Virgil, were able to determine the approximate location of Virgil's birth from discussions with former and current owners of the property who stated that a small community was established in the area in the late 1800s. Apparently there was a wagon trail through the area. The current owner also told them that the trail was still visible but was not easy to find. Jim said he couldn't find the trail the last time he visited the site. Saturday was a cold, blustery day so we didn't take the time to try to find it then.

George scraped away the moss in an attempt to decipher the name and year engraved on the header stone over what used to be the doorway of the spring house. The name appears to be “C M Racksy” and the year may be 1879. If so, then the spring house may have been built about 12 years prior to Virgil's birth.



Other historic family sites we visited on Saturday were the White Chapel Cemetery, where Virgil and his wife Mary (Hutcheson) are buried, and the house where they lived in Springfield.

The majority of the people left Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning. George and his wife Lorene invited me to their house Saturday, so I stayed with them until this morning. We spent yesterday looking over their Joslin family files. It was a very good day!

It was raining when I left Springfield this morning but by the time I got to Joplin, the rain had stopped and the sky was starting to clear. After a brief stop for gasoline, it was on into Kansas. The sun came out and the clouds disappeared leaving blue skies behind. It even warmed up with the temperature getting up to 50 or so. A nice day for a drive in the country...