In Print

I wanted to share that this Spring I have two pieces of writing coming out in print publications. An article on my impressions of a classic randonneuring bike will appear in the Spring issue of Bicycle Quarterly. And a reworked version of a post from last December, "Emotional Landscapes," has been included in Taking the Lane, Volume 6: Lines on the Map. If you are interested in reading these pieces and the excellent works alongside which they appear, both issues are now available to order.



Since the start of this blog I've been reluctant to commit my bicycle-related writing to print. I did not feel the writing here was good enough, and I also didn't think the style really flowed outside of the blog format. But working on the Bicycle Quarterly article and interacting with Jan Heine made me aware that I've accumulated material - stories, thoughts, ideas - that do not fit the blog format and would work better in print.



Posts like Emotional Landscapes and this earlier one about Vienna are examples of writing that really should have been longer and more nuanced, adapted for the blog only because I had no other outlet for it. Publishing a slightly altered version of the former in Taking the Lane allowed me to test the waters as to whether I felt comfortable turning non-committal blog snippets into real pieces of writing.



I think that one of my readers, who comments here as "Spindizzy" (aka Jon Gehman the rackmaker) is a genius writer who owes it to the world to write a book about life and bicycles. His comments alone are literature as far as I am concerned. I've also been inspired by the writing of Tim Krabbé, Grant Petersen and Bill Strickland (in a way I see the latter two as flip sides of the same coin), and reading their stuff has made me realise that distinguishing "bicycle writing" from "literature" is silly and a defense mechanism. I've written stuff that has been published before. But with this blog I wanted to de-stress and take the pressure off with what I initially thought was a lighthearted topic. Imagine my surprise.



TheSpring issue of Bicycle Quarterly and Taking the Lane, Volume 6 are now available, and those who order should receive theirs some time in April. I derive no financial benefit from the sales of either, but invite you to support these small, independent publications.

After A Bath

This is Stormy. He was yawning after getting the spa treatment. I gave him a good bath. He looked so shiny and cute.

Gilead Revisited

This may look familiar to some readers. It is a slightly different view of the gravesite of the family of Peter and Christina Wise in Gilead Cemetery, Miami County, Indiana.

You see that stone to the left of Peter and Christina's? (Theirs is the fourth tall white marker to the left.) Well, I have reason to believe that it is another daughter of theirs. Had I taken the time last week, to look at other stones in that area (you all know that is what you're supposed to do, don't you?) and make note of the names nearby, then when I found that information on the four claimants in Christina Wise's estate entry at the Courthouse in Peru a week ago, the names might have 'clicked' in this feeble little brain of mine. As it was, it took a while longer, but thanks to an online cemetery index I did make the connection. And yeah, I made another trip to Gilead, Peru, and Wabash. Yesterday. I'm so glad it's not all that far away. Photographs taken on February 14, .. by Becky Wiseman.

These were the four claimants mentioned in Christina's estate entry (about half-way down that post): Rosanna Hate (or Hale), Luella Culbertson, William Kircher, and John J. Mohler.

As noted in that post there is a William Kercher in the 1870 and 1880 census for Perry Township, Miami County, Indiana. With him in 1870 is his wife Catherine and daughter Lulla. In 1880 is his wife Catherine, John A. Culberson, son-in-law, and Luella Culberson, daughter.

That stone to the left of Peter and Christina's? It's for William and Catherine Kircher. And the one to the left of theirs? It's for their son-in-law John Culbertson. There will be another post, soon, on what I found on them. Catherine's obituary did not provide any family information (none, nada, zilch), but it was "signed" by Effie Hoffman. That would be her niece, daughter of Eliza Jane Wise Hoffman.



WILLIAM KIRCHER / DIED NOV. 15, 1895 / AGED 67 Y. 10 M. & 3 D.
CATHARINE A. HIS WIFE / DIED FEB. 5, 1884 / AGED 58 Y. 1 M. & 20 D.

With better lighting conditions, the stone on the right would be easier to read and photograph.
JOHN A. / CULBERTSON / DIED / APR. 23, 1883 / AGED 25 Y. 6M. / & 1 D.



I couldn't find this marker when I went to the cemetery last week, but with the online transcription, noted above, it was easily located this time.

ELIZABETH WISE / DIED / MAY 24, 1854 / Aged 17 Y 4 M
Yes, I swept away the snow to read her age, but it isn't a "pretty" picture.

It's a Parade!

Saturday, August 20th - - There were numerous activities in Mellette County, South Dakota this week for their Centennial Celebration and annual Pioneer Days but today was the “big parade” in White River, the county seat, population 580 or thereabouts.





The Parade began with the American Legion Color Guard and the Community Band (on the float behind them) playing the National Anthem.





Of course, Horses were a big part of the parade. A little “artistic license” taken here with selective focus and sepia toning...





This four-horse team was quite impressive.



The “Centennial Christmas Tree” was decorated with sunflowers, amongst other things. The fields of Sunflowers in the area were so pretty and colorful.





Of course, there was some clowning around.



This gal was having way too much fun! I tried hard to get a full face photo of her but she was just moving around too quickly.





Quite the colorful character!

The parade was enjoyed by all. The threat of rain in the morning did not dampen spirits - the voice over the loudspeaker announced that we were part of the largest crowd ever in White River!

La Sportiva Lo5 ski review

Dave on the Low5in the cold smoke of the Brevent. photo courtesy of Ross Hewitt




“I didn’t know La Sportiva made Ski’s, how are they?”



Seems to be something that I get asked a lot when I take MY Lo5’s out in Chamonix.



Up until last year I didn’t know they made ski’s either. Everyone knows them for their boots and we’ve all seen the ridiculously light Ski Boots sat in the shops looking very racey. But Ski’s? In an already vast market of ski’s you need to find a good neash and do it well to get anywhere and I’m happy to say that quality wise they are very good.









Let me first describe my skiing and what I look for. I live in Chamonix which is of course a haven for steep and technical descents which are primarily human powered with the exception of the ‘big pheriques’. Therefore there are two different days that I usually have in Cham. If there is fresh then the norm is to lap the Midi or the Grande Montet until I can’t stand. These days require big ski’s, stiff boots and a powerful approach to skiing. We don’t get that many days like that unfortunately. This brings me on to the other type of skiing we have where you head out with a bag full of what you think might be useful i.e ropes, poons, axe(s) skins and you head to either a pre-planned objective or and area where you think it might be good… For days like this you need a predictable, stable ski with good edge grip and enough float to get you through the 3 day old pow. They need to be stiff enough to plow the crud and crust and light enough that you can rinse out 1200m+ of vert and still have enough in you to ski back to town. Finding a Ski which does it all is tough I agree so compromise needs to be made however I think I might of found my perfect partner with the Lo5’s for days like these…..



http://davesearle.me//01/25/y-couloir-aiguille-dargentiere-one-of-those-days/



http://davesearle.me//01/27/s-couloir-aiguille-de-leboulement-d%C2%B2/



Most of the people I ski with will run a 100m waisted ski as their touring ski. We all like to enjoy the down with big turns and airs and we don’t have time for mincy skiing on floppy Rando planks. We want to go deep into the massif in a day and ski out fast so we can get back to our homes to re-hydrate, refuel and plan for the next day.









This past week in Cham I have exclusively skied on the La Sportiva Lo5 to give them a proper test. I was skiing for 4 days around work and here’s what I did.









Day 1: Two laps of the Aiguille du midi via the Valley Blanche/Envers du plan. Deep, fresh powder and an icey, Bumpy track back to town. A good day- Perhaps better to have been on a bigger pow ski but still the Lo5’s put a smile on my face and gave me a good day out for sure. They handled the bumps very well and kept me on the straight and narrow (track).



Day 2: Y Couloir on the Aiguille d’Argentiere. Steep (up to 50 degrees) decent in perfect cold snow. 1200m up and 2650m down in a day up to 3900m. I felt super confortable and secure on the Lo5’s putting in jump turns in the steep and narrow couloir and they felt light on my back during the hike up. Skiing the Grande Montet homerun (red run) in the failing/flat light was a breeze. They handled very well on the piste with good carve ability.



Day 3: Col hopping in the Aiguille Rouge. We wanted to ski a steep north facing couloir but ended up skiing a sloppy south face with variable snow and some fun drops to get through the rock bands. The ski’s handled all the messy snow well. They delt with the cunderballs, debris, powder, semi corn and icey track in equal measures and again I appreciated the low weight as we spent most of the day going up.



Day 4: South Couloir of the Aiguille De l’Eboulement. 1500m of vert in a day and 2250m down in variable snow, which was mostly breakable crust. Tricky skiing for sure and not really that pleasant. Only a massive reverse camber ski would have been fun on the way down. I still felt glad to have the Lo5’s on my feet as they were predictable to turn on the steeps and the early tip rise helped no end in the crust.



All in all a pretty full on week in Cham. All kinds of snow experienced and I’m still loving the Lo5’s as my touring ski. As a light and reliable SKIMO tool these pretty much hit the nail on the head and would be a good companion to any Climber or Ski Mountaineers/ Tourer who needs a reliable and predictable yet fun ski to rip the resort, pow, steeps and bumps with ease.



Other info:

I mounted My Plum Guides 1cm forward from the line with quiver killer inserts. I have the 178 and my set up is exactly 4Kg in total.











editors note:



Dave and my buddy Jerry, a ski patroler in Montana, have been ripping and raving on theLo5s this season.



Jerry's comments on the Lo5.



Dane -

Snow here has been so thin I have only skied them once (but am going for three days starting saturday). I took them up to Bridger on a day with 6-8 inches of very cold powder (@0-10F) and a firm base. Skied bumps, pow, chop, nd a few rocks. Was skiing with a former US Team member and his son so we were mostly hauling ass.



I didn't know when I ordered these that they were the same dimensions as my 165 Kilowatts (the sportivas are 178) so I have a good comparison although the BDs are around five years old. Both have dynafits mounted.



My first impression is that I now get it when they say the early rise skis seem short. These feel about the same as the BDs - not a bad thing except for steep bumps where a longer ski would be better. That sounds counterintuitive but this ski in a 188 would really smooth out the foreandaft. Even with a more traditional boot (I was skiing the green dynafit),youjust can't get that tip to do much. Opposite on the powder and chop where they require no effort. They are more fun than my Fischer Wateas at 114 atthe waist. More control and feel. No issues on the packed and I couldcarvepretty easy with an upright over the feet stance (I ski a lot like Pierceand Arnold - not as well but standing pretty upright).



As a one quiver ski I think they would be fine if you kept them out of thefirm bumps (did I mention these were really firm bumps). Since I have nointerest in skiing that sort of terrain I would ski them every day at BS. Would like to try the 188s. I patrol on a big Dynastar Legend at 188and really enjoy them and think the Low 5 in that length would be stellarespecially at about a third the weight. I think the sidecut is the newstandard for an all round ski and have no problem keeping an edge in firm spring snow.



I've never skied the DPS so can't say how them compare but based on talkingwith those that own them they either come with a lifetime supply ofcocaineor are some of the best skiing boards out there. (DB sez: Its true, the DPS do ski well ;-) For me and how and whereIlike to ski the Lo5 is going to be fine. I spend more and more time in the BC taking tours and skiing open faces and tight chutes. This ski is goingtoreplace my BDs, save weight, and give more float skinning and skiing -what's not to like?

J.



Here in the PNW, on Cascade Cement much of the time I have been using the Hi5 for the last two seasons going on three now. I still haven't found anything to replace them and I have a a few more pairs of skis now. So it isn't without trying. More on the Hi5 here:



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//10/la-sportiva-hi5-rock.html



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//06/la-sportiva-hi5-skis.html

Gunks Routes: V-3 (5.7), Limelight (5.7), Arrow (5.8) & Horseman (5.5)

(Photo: Starting up V-3. Right here there's this one little reachy move. This move has given me a moment's pause both of the times I've led the route.)



This past weekend I played tour guide at the Gunks.



I was climbing with Deepak and Chin, two climbers I know from Brooklyn Boulders. They had little trad experience and wanted me to show them what trad climbing in the Gunks is all about. They knew how to belay and they'd been outside to climb, even followed a few trad pitches before, but had never rappelled or done a multi-pitch route.



If you wanted to introduce someone to the Gunks, which climbs would you choose?



I wanted the climbs to be classics. I wanted them to be interesting, and unlike the gym experience.



I thought V-3 (5.7) might be a nice place to start. It has a short first pitch, with a good crux that is totally unlike any gym climb. You have to use your body to get into the v-notch at the top of the pitch, and then you have to figure out how to get out of the notch to finish the climb. I was sure Deepak and Chin would have no trouble climbing the route, and I hoped that it would convert them to the way of the tradster, forever changing their view of the outdoor experience vs. indoor pulling on plastic.



My plan was that I would lead the pitch and stay at the top, bringing them both up.Once we were all there at the belayI could set them up to rappel, instruct them,then lower myself to the ground and give each of them a fireman's belay for their rappels. (A fireman's belay involves simply holding the rope while a person rappels. In the unlikely event thatthe rappeller loses control of the rap, the belayer pulls hard on the ropes, which stops them from going through the rappeller's device.)



I figured that if the climbing and rappelling on V-3 went well, we could then go do some multi-pitch climbs on the Arrow wall. But if Deepak and Chin were not into doing a multi-pitch climb after V-3, we could do any of a number of good moderate first pitches that were close by, like Alley Oop or Cakewalk.









(Photo: Getting up to the notch on V-3 (5.7).)




Everything went according to plan, at first. I led the pitch and liked it even more than I did last year. It isn't just about the v-notch. There are some good moves right at the start and just underneath the notch. The notch itself is fun, of course, and well protected.




Chin followed me up and seemed to do well with the climbing.









(Photo: Chin making the final moves out of the notch on V-3.)




But it was hot and sunny at the belay station, and as Deepak came up to join us Chin seemed to wilt in the heat. She told me she felt like she might pass out.




Oh no! This was not good. It had happened to me once before. But that time I'd been in the middle of leading a pitch when my partner Liz said she felt faint. That was a hairier situation. This time around we were both securely fastened to a bolted anchor, so there was nothing really to worry about. Still I wanted to get her to the ground where there was shade and water as soon as possible.




Luckily Deepak was just about at the anchor so when he arrived I lowered Chin to the ground. She didn't pass out and felt better almost as soon as she got down. Once I knew she was okay I set Deepak up to rappel and then we both descended. Deepak rappelled like a pro.




I thought we might be done after just one pitch but to my surprise both Chin and Deepak wanted to continue. Chin was okay with single-pitch climbing but Deepak wanted to go above one pitch if he could. I decided to take them up Limelight (5.7) and Arrow (5.8). I would have Chin follow the first pitch of each, then lower her. Then I'd bring Deepak up and continue with the upper pitches.




I had done the second pitches of both climbs as recently as last year, but I hadn't been on the first pitch of either one since . I remembered the first pitches as being unremarkable. And it is true, neither climb's first pitch is as great as the second.




But Limelight's first pitch isn't bad at all. It is quite nice. It has consistent climbing at an easy 5.6- level, with some interesting moves around the flakes at the top of the pitch. It is well-protected once you get going, but it takes while for the pro to appear right after you leave the ground.









(Photo: Relaxing atop Limelight (5.7), waitingto usethe rappel station.)




Limelight's second pitch is one of my favorites. There is one hazard I want to warn you about. I think this is a recent development. There is a very loose block just to your right as you get above the GT Ledge and onto the upper wall. The climbing here is quite easy-- this is a ways below the Limelight flake-- so the block is not hard to avoid. But I think I have placed gear behind this block in the past. This time, when it easily moved as soon as I touched it, I placed nothing in its vicinity, causing a bit of a runout.




Once you reach the unique Limelight flake, the awesomeness begins. It looks so thin. It is hard to believe the edges of this flake will be as positive as they are. But once you commit to the big move to get on top of the flake, the hands and feet are all there. Beautiful, delicate climbing takes you up past a pin to the rooflet, and then a few thin steps take you left to the finishing jugs. Along the way the pro is good. The flake will take small nuts pretty much anywhere, and there are downward-facing slots for cams on the traverse.









(Photo: Deepak following me up the 5.6 first pitch of Arrow.)




Arrow's first pitch is not as nice as Limelight's. There's nothing really interesting about it. The second pitch is wonderful, though. A fun easy roof leads to great face climbing on marble-like white rock past two bolts.




Arrow was my first 5.8 lead back in , and when I look back I'm not quite sure how I managed it, since I still find the crux move considerably harder than 5.8, even though I've led it three times now. I've gone to the left at the top bolt every time, because going to the right seems impossible. Even now that I have my strategy set in advance I find it challenging to commit and execute it. I'm still psyched that I somehow got it onsight. I don't want to spoil it so I won't tell you about the mantel/reach-through maneuver that I do...




Oops, I let it slip out there.




I did one thing differently this time that I'd never done before: I placed pro twice between the bolts. There are some thin cracks that will take pretty solid small Aliens. As I placed the second piece, which was just a few feet below the second bolt, it suddenly occurred to me that these bolts are bullshit. They are unnecessary; the pro isn't that bad without them. I resolved to come back to do a "fair means" ascent of Arrow, without clipping the bolts. Then after my perfect, truly free ascent of this compromised route I would have license to chop the the bolts on rappel, returning the climb to its natural state for the greater good and the glory of trad climbers everywhere.




I am kidding, of course. I don't think that would go over too well.




Maybe I'm 60% kidding.




It would be kind of neat to climb it without clipping the bolts. I might try it some time. I'm sure I wouldn't be the first.Heck, I'm suresomeone has free soloed the routewearing sneakers, in the rain.




Chin and Deepak both had no troubleclimbing Limelight and Arrow, and Chin in particular wanted to do at least one more climb. I felt a little bad that she'd missed out on the upper pitches of the climbs. So I proposed we finish with Horseman (5.5), a climb thatis traditionally two pitches. We could do it in one pitch (as most people do these days), but Chin could count it as two, and she'd get to top out on the cliff.




Luckily we found it open and finished up with another great classic. I love Horseman because it introduces you toso much of whatthe Gunks is about. You get thin face climbing, followed by a fun dihedral, a traverse to avoid a roof, and then steep juggy climbing to the top.




I don't know how many times I've climbed Horseman. On Sunday it was a joy. As I reached the end of the climb, I thought about how lucky I was that Chin and Deepak had asked me to show them around. The climbs we did together weren't projects of mine, and I wouldn't have chosen them if I'd been out with one of my usual partners. But climbing them was like being reunited with old friends.




There's something to be said for cruising up old favorites. It isa lot offun.

Functionality, Comfort, Aesthetics

A couple of my recent posts have generated some engaging commentary on "form vs function" and the validity of aesthetic preoccupations in cycling. I put the phrase "form vs function" in quotation marks, because I do not view it as a dichotomy that needs to be resolved. For me, the two concepts are in a symbiotic relationship, whereby one enhances the other and is incomplete without the other. I readily acknowledge my interest in aesthetics. But I stop well short of putting aesthetic factors before practical ones, which I hope comes across clearly throughout Lovely Bicycle.



There are three basic qualities that matter to me in a bicycle, and these qualities are functionality,comfort,and aesthetics. All three are essential for me, and I could not love a bicycle if either were lacking.



To me, functionality means that a bicycle must be good at what it was designed to do. For instance, a racing bicycle is designed with the goal of winning races. It therefore must possess qualities such as the ability to gain speed quickly and extreme maneuverability. Anything in the design of a racing bicycle that detracts from its ability to win races is a functional flaw. By the same token, an urban transport bicycle is designed to serve as a viable means of transportation for the city dweller. It therefore must possess features that enable the cyclist to comfortably and conveniently travel in everyday clothing, to observe their surroundings, to securely transport their bags and packages, and to travel in the dark. Anything in the design of an urban transport bicycle that detracts from this is a functional flaw.



Because functionality is a factor of individual needs, it is subject to great variability. Just as there are different types of bicycle racers, so are there different types of urban commuters. A diplomat who wears crisp skirt-suits and freshly-polished shoes to work and has a 2-mile commute will likely require different features from a transport bike than a computer programmer who wears jeans, sweaters and sneakers and has a 12-mile commute. A bicycle's functionality can only be evaluated in the context of its intended use.



And of course, regardless of what kind of cycling a bicycle was designed for, functionality means that everything should be working properly: structurally sound frame, proper assembly, and quality components.



The notion of comfort is equally important, and equally subjective. We need to be comfortable on a bicycle in order to enjoy riding it, or even to tolerate riding it. The more comfortable we are, the more we ride, and the safer our cycling behaviour. An uncomfortable bicycle can make commuting, touring and even racing a nightmare.There are many, many factors that go into what makes a bicycle comfortable - from the geometry and material of the frame, to the positioning of the saddle and handlebars, to other, more elusive aspects.



Being comfortable on a bicycle involves, first and foremost, being pain-free. In particular, pain in the hands, knees, butt, crotch and neck are the sort one should not be experiencing while cycling, as it can cause injury.



Comfort also means that a cyclist should feel good about their ability to control and handle their bicycle: to mount and dismount, to balance, to pick up speed in the manner they want, to handle turns, to climb hills, to control descents, to make emergency stops, to carry a load, and to cycle through traffic. And while to an extent all of this certainly depends on the cyclist's skill level, it also very much depends on the bicycle. A given cyclist may be comfortable doing these things on one type of bike, but not on another. I am a firm believer in finding a bicycle that both feels good to ride, and matches your skill level and comfort zone, rather than attempting to adapt to a bicycle that does not feel right.



Finally, I believe that the aesthetics of a bicycle are no less crucial in the enjoyment of the overall cycling experience. Put simply, aesthetics is how appealing or attractive we find the bicycle to be. Do we enjoy looking at it? Does it fill us with excitement and pleasure? Do we feel compelled to touch it, to ride it? It is about an emotional response, and it is about individual definitions of beauty.



Though some are more aware of it than others, the aesthetic experience is a natural part of our everyday lives. As we move through our environments and go about our daily activities, we are always looking and always responding with some degree of emotionality - whether it is positive, negative, or some form of confusion. Almost nothing leaves us entirely indifferent, unless we do not notice it. We prefer certain colours over others, certain shapes over others, certain spaces over others, and certain faces over others. Aesthetics are not just for the frivolous or the rich; they are not something you are aware of only when looking at paintings or choosing expensive curtains. All ordinary objects and everyday experiences have aesthetic qualities, and being able to extract these qualities can bring joy and fulfillment to the way we experience life.



Needless to say, what we consider "aesthetically pleasing" is extremely subjective, probably even more so than comfort and functionality. To some extent, it has to do with our inherent sense of harmony, symmetry, and balance, as well as with the associations evoked by the given object. Suffice to say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.



The importance of functionality, comfort and aesthetics in the cycling experience extends beyond their individual roles; it is the interaction of the three that is crucial. How useful is the functionality of a bicycle that is not comfortable? How useful is the comfort of a bicycle if it is not functional? What good is a beautiful bicycle that is either uncomfortable or non-functional? And how sad it is for a bicycle to be functional and comfortable, but not excite you or make you smile?The most successful bicycle design is one where functionality, comfort, and aesthetics intersect.The graceful sweep of a loop frame is not only visually pleasing, but allows easy step-through. A handle bar bag secured to a randonneur-style front rack is not only handsome, but extremely useful on long trips. Form and function are best enjoyed as a happy couple.



In my posts on Lovely Bicycle, I do not pretend to be "everyman" or the voice of other cyclists. Far from it! I am a kooky, peculiar person with an unconventional lifestyle and profession, and I am comfortable with that. Neither do I make prescriptive statements about what kinds of bicycles other people should like or should be riding.Personally, I love bicycles that are functional, comfortable, and beautiful - and that is what I write about. You may relate, or you may not. Life is all about personal preferences.

Used furniture

We are trying to sell some furniture through ads in the classifieds. It's becoming an interesting tutorial in human nature.

"Hi, can you tell me the dimensions of the entertainment center you've got advertised in the paper?"

"Yes, but I'm in the car driving right now. Can you call me back in about 15 minutes?"

"Yeah, sure."

No call back.

Or the one who left a message. I tried her back twice, and she never called again.

Why? Why would you go to the trouble of answering an ad, and then not follow through?

Is there something in my voice that makes me sound like someone that you wouldn't want to buy furniture from?

Then there are the blank emails, or emails with the wrong return address. (They can't hear me, so that shouldn't be a factor.)

I'm beginning to think that everyone else has 50 million things going at once too. Three jillion things to cross off their "to do" list. Maybe they forget to call back, and then figure it's already been sold.

But it hasn't.

---
Begin Bloggomercial!

If anyone local (near Birmingham, Alabama) needs some lovely teak furniture...







These are pictures I saved from the ad circular when I bought the furniture, and are a little scratchy (the pics, not the furniture).

It's not politically correct to buy teak anymore, since most of the time it's not grown in a sustainable fashion. Of course it's fine to buy used teak.

If anyone would like to give our furniture a new home, email me... we just don't have room for it.

End of bloggomercial!

Southeast Aurora

Fromthis pastweekend's incredibly awesome geomagnetic storm. You know it's an excellent display of the northern lights when the best views are no longer to the north! This particular formation of the Aurora was actually emanating up from the southeast horizon! This was a 20 second exposure taken at ISO 1600 with a Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera and Canon EF 17-40mm lens.

Keeping up... 83 year old makes summit bid

The climbing season is rolling along nicely. Today, an 83 year old started a summit attempt via the Kautz Glacier and he's no stranger to Mount Rainier. Bill Painter of Richland, WA holds the record as the oldest person to summit the mountain (both in 2004 and 2005). Last year, he smoothly ascended the Emmons Glacier... More on his attempt early next week.

It's been 3 weeks since I've been in the park... Thankfully, some of the climbing rangers have been helping w/ route and condition updates. That said, we still love your climbing reports. Over the next day or two, I'll upload many of the great reports climbers have been sending. Of significant news was an ascent of Willis Wall, Mowich Face and new information on Kautz and Success Cleavers. Photo by Loren while on the Willis Wall. YIKES!!!

Moving On :: A Jog in the Road Back

Monday, August 30th - - Highway 37A west from Cassiar Highway (in British Columbia) is also known as Glacier Highway. Though the clouds had moved in and were hovering over the tops of the mountains, portions of a few of the glaciers could be seen from the highway, which began in a wide valley but soon narrowed. A river on the left and the mountains on both sides dominated the views. Numerous waterfalls and streams could be seen cascading down the sides of the mountains. Along with the clouds came the rain, sometimes heavy, and I drove slowly through the valley, savoring its beauty.

One of the streams/waterfalls that drop hundreds of feet down the mountain side along the Glacier Highway.

Halfway to Stewart the valley expanded once more. A first glimpse of Stewart, in the rain and early evening twilight, was not impressive. It looked drab and run-down. I passed by an RV Park and went on to the Municipal Campground, which was in a heavily forested area. It looked dark under the trees even though it was still early evening. But it offered flush toilets and hot showers, so it got the nod for the night!

==========

Tuesday, August 31st - - Stewart didn't look much better when I drove through town this morning. It was drizzling rain and it was foggy. Visualize a small town in America in the 1950s then move forward 60 years but make no changes to the town. Old buildings add character to a place but most of these buildings were way past their prime.

I stopped at the Visitor Center, which appeared to be one of the newest buildings in town, and picked up a self-guiding car-tour map of the road that goes to Hyder, Alaska and which continues on to Salmon Glacier. I was informed by the nice lady that it is a dirt road but once you get through Hyder and beyond the Bear Viewing Platform and get back into British Columbia, the road is well maintained and in good condition. The implication was that the U.S. portion of the road wasn't in good shape. Well, it wasn't implied, she came right out and said that the U.S. portion of the road was terrible! It had potholes and washboard areas and was narrow in spots – but it was only for a couple of miles. It's safe, she said, just take it easy.

Throwing caution to the wind, I drove up that road. Slowly and carefully, taking it easy. I've avoided traveling on dirt/gravel roads as much as possible. I just don't like them. But sometimes you have to risk it and hope that the risks are worth the rewards. They were.

Hyder, Alaska (four miles from downtown Stewart) is a small town of 100 happy souls, and one old grouch. So says a sign on one of the old, rugged buildings. The dirt road, the rain, and the fog didn't add much to the appeal of the place. There were about 20 old buildings (some were in use as small shops) and two RV Parks along with a Post Office and a General Store.

I stopped at the Bear Viewing Platform (about 3 miles from Hyder) that is managed by the National Forest Service. No bears were in sight and none had been seen yet today. The Ranger said a mother with her cubs usually comes in about noon and again about six o'clock. It was only nine so I continued on to Salmon Glacier seventeen miles further up the road.

Six miles from the Bear Viewing Platform, I crossed back into British Columbia. And the road got considerably better, as promised. All this time the road is going up. And it keeps going up as well as winding itself around the side of the mountain. And it is still drizzling rain. Ten miles further there is a turnout and I get my first look at Salmon Glacier. Splendid!

The river of ice fills the valley below and continues on up and around the mountain peak on the left. Those black streaks are dirt and rocks that the glacier has picked up as it moves imperceptibly over the mountains.

It would not be an easy task, if even possible, to hike over this.
Crevasses and holes would make it a rather treacherous journey. These aren't just ripples in the surface, they are deep. Perhaps a hundred feet or more.

Salmon Glacier from another turnout two miles north. The clouds and fog obscured the little bit of sun that occasionally came through.

The Salmon Glacier is the fifth largest glacier in Canada and is a remnant of the last glaciation period which occurred 14,000 years ago. What I saw and what is shown here are but a very small portion of the glacier which extends way back beyond the horizon.

The sun did make an appearance now and then and the rain finally stopped - briefly. Down in the valley and a few miles to the south are the towns of Hyder, Alaska and Stewart, British Columbia.

Even more slowly than going up, I made my way back down the mountain. I stopped at the Bear Viewing Platform for about 45 minutes. Saw a lot of Chum Salmon in the river, both dead and spawning, but no bears. And the sun was, once more, hidden by the clouds.

I returned to Cassiar Highway and the long drive south, stopping at the town of Smithers for the night. And the rain? It seems that it was the first that Stewart/Hyder had seen in two months! And it followed me to Smithers where I learned that they too hadn't had rain for many weeks.

3 days of shenanigans

Laura and I planned to go ice climbing with my buddy Matt Johns from Kentucky, Joel Torretti and his buddy Josh Hurst from Maine. Yeah you read right, he came here from Maine. After a start consisting of breakfast at Valley Dairy, shopping for - drill bits, a six pack, twice forgotten pants, non-alcoholic drinks, snacks and probably more. We've learned that buying a sixer around 9:00 am is harder to do than you think... Oh yeah I almost forgot it was raining. Not the best weather for ICE climbing, or is it? Well Matt had to stay in Kentucky so we sadly were Mattless. It ended up being Laura, Joel, Josh and I. After our morning shenanigans, we decided to drive to Meadow Run in Ohiopyle to check out the Upper Meadow amphitheater for potential mixed lines. The rains stopped by the time we arrived in Ohiopyle. Upon pulling into the parking lot we saw the quantity of ice along the Lower Meadow cliff band and decided it was clearly time to climb and check out the Upper later in the day. We spent the morning cranking the mixed lines and even added an alternate left var. to Captain Caveman that traverses left more under the roof before pulling the lip around the last hanging curtain. Slightly longer and harder than Captain Caveman. All kinds of shenanigans going on there. Fun stuff... short and pumpy. Laura busted herself up falling on Anger Management (which some asshole stole the draws off of) so she stayed to climb Hemlock with me and following the advice of Dr. Torretti, decided to head home to heal for tomorrow and Sunday. The 3 of us stayed and climbed a couple more lines and decided to walk to Upper Meadow to eye the amphitheater while we still had a couple of hrs. of light. What can I say... Its steep, burly, has free hangers and pillars galore. Its impressive to see. We explored around looking at potential lines out the steep cave. We decided to work on a line that starts on some ice in the back of the cave and heads up through several overlaps to the free hanging curtain at the lip. Burly, but by no means the most difficult line there. Joel rigged a line from the top while Josh started up the ice and got the first bolt in. I put him on belay as he worked up, go into position and placed the 2nd. He came down and I was up. I went up on lead to the high point and continued up into position and located where to put the 3rd. I didn't get more than a 1/2 inch when the drill was doing no good. The battery was dead. I lowered the drill and proceeded to get myself stuck for a while. After much effort, I was back to the ground. We cleaned up and walked out as it was getting dark. Good ice, good laughs, good fun. 1 down 2 to go. Can't wait to see what tomorrow brings... Enjoy the photos!

DPS Wailer 112 RPC review...aka "DPS Lotus 115"

Happy man on a DPS RPC




















Product: DPS 112 RPC (Pure Carbon construction)



Length Tested: 192cm

Turn Radius: 20-23m

side cut: 144mm-115mm-127mm

Tip rocker: 480mm

Tail rocker: 384mm

Running length: 1510mm

Weight: per skis: 4lb. 5oz.

Binding: Dynfit Radical Speed

Mount point: +1cm forward of suggested

Ski weight with bindings: 5lb. 2oz. per ski



Environment & Conditions:

Location of Test: Crystal Mountain Washington

Number of Runs: 5 full days over a10 day late springstorm cycle

Snow Conditions: from hard packed, rain ice, to3 feetof new mid winter snow

Demo or Own: own



Tester Info:

Height/Weight: 6'1" 190lb

Ski Days/Season: 30+

Years Skiing: 30+

Aggressiveness: Moderate

Current Quiver:Huascaran,Aspect, GTR, Lo5, Hi5, 112RP, 138, Broad Peak, 112RP, 138.

Home Area: Silver Mtn Idaho, Crystal Mtn andAlpental WA.

Preferred Terrain:off-piste, trees, steeps



DPS sez: The RPC shape gives up some of the Wailer 112RP's hard snow carving performance and versatility in exchange for enhanced crud and powder velocity.


1 (worst) to 5 (best) star ratings

Value: ***** (hard to believe on a $1250 ski but there it is!)







Durability: unknown at this point but they still look good







Edge Grip: considering the 115mm under foot *****







Maneuverability:******







Performance:******



Up front. I have not beena big fan of the 112RP.Some seem to thinkit isthe *magic ski*. I liked the 112RP enough to have kept a pair for a season. Almost everyonefrom professional mtn guides to timid intermediates seem to rave aboutthe 112RP.To me it is a quiver ski. And not one currently in my quiver. And not oneto be replaced. Not nearly versatile enough to be my only skis. Not to say it is a bad ski. Just not the ski to end my search for the perfect ski. I am glad I had a chance to spend a season on them. But not unhappy when I sold them either.




Like everyone else reading this review specifically for 112 RPC hands on info,likely most of you haveread the less than stellar review on the RPC, Blister had posted previous. (It is linked below) That review (and more recently a second on the 2014 RPC) and my dislike for the 112PC kept me off the RPC for most of this season. In retrospect that was a big, BIG mistake on my part. I get sucked in on the Internet reviews just as easily as the next guy. Damn it!



What I like about theRPC compared to the RP? Less rocker in the tip and tail as a start. And a stifferover all ski flex. Theski is best described as "a sidecut version of the lotus 138, than similar to the wailer 112RP". Same shapeused, with slight variation, on the Lotus 120, 112RP, the 112RPC and the 99, and is exceptional technology imo.



I am blessed by good fortune to get on a lot of skis. A dozen or so this season alone. Not a professional ski tester by any meansbut more skis than I have ever dreamt of skiing in any oneseason previous. Best of all I own the skis..so nothing owed to the manufacture here past an honest appraisal of the skis.. All of which just keeps mesearching for the next "best ski".



A good many friends (mostactive outdoor ski professionals) have decided that the 100mm under foot is *the* magic number for theirevery day skis. I need to keep looking for that 100mm ski. And I have most of the 100mm ski my buddies have suggested. From my own search the 112mm/115mm seems to be my magic number.I am typically a strong skier (physically) and able to ski any terrain given reasonable snow conditions. And now with a modern115mm under foot ski, even what I use to think as "unreasonable" conditions I can generally ski with little effort.



One of my most fun and agile pair of all around skis right now isa short 177cm, and 112mm under foot, skis. But I prefer something longer when riding lift served terrain. Something more like190cm+.FWIW I generally like alight weight167/168cm skisin the BC if I am looking at covering an sort of distance.



I am using a tech or Dynafit style binding on all my skis these days. Even the skis reserved just for lift skiing. The RPC is going to be a lift served ski 90% of the time for me. I commented on the 112s earlier. From DPS's original comments the 112RP seems like a much betterpowder ski than a resort/powder skis to me.I've not skied the newest Rossi 7 Series but hopefully will shortly. I have skied similar skis to the DPS RPC fromBD, La Sportiva, DPSin 100 and 115 formats. I like the newest light weightskis and the lightest Dynafit style bindings. Amountaineering back ground has me looking in that direction..instead of back at my old school Rossi and K2 roots. Just the weight when picking up a 115mm under foot from Rossignol orK2stops mefrom looking any further. The huge tail rocker on any of those skis would, if weight did not. Even though I know some of those skiswill ski very, very well.



Beloware a few questions from a different forum that were asked when I mentioned I really didn't like the 112RP.



"Were you on the 190cm RP's? Interesting that DPS describes the RP to be more capable on hard than the RPC, and more versatile, but you found just the opposite to be true for you."



Here is the video I found most enlightening from DPS. This is what convinced me to give the "112" another try even if it is a 115 version :)



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hq2VAjV8bJo


Yes, I was on the 190cm version of the PURE 112RP. And a 192 on the PURE 138 Lotus. (Zero4 and One boots) But one of my all time favorite skis is the Dynafit Huascaran in a 177cm (TLT boots) as a playful, fun ski in most any conditions and unsurpassed *for me* in tight trees. I like a stiff tail and little or no rocker in the tail on a shorter ski. The rocker up front I don't want flapping around at speed and the ability to carve bullet proof ice with some acuity important as well.



As much as I did like them both I thought both the 138 and the 112RP too much of a quiver ski instead of a all around ski (duh! that is obvious on the 138 and not nearly the versatility of the 112 everyone else describes ).




I bought 196cm Huascarans and the 192 RPC at the same time. Expecting GREAT things from the longer Hauscaran and not much from the the RPC. Knowing that the 177cm Huascaran is one of my all time favourite sets on any terrain using theTLT Mtn boot. It turned out the other way around on ski likes and dislikes.I was making the comparison ontwo hour intervals during a 3 day dump of new powder overa hard ice (west coast standards) base that was rained on before freezing up solid. Add two feet of fluff to that while you are still skiing the ice as the base was interesting for the first day and a half.



Every time the place got skied out and I thought the conditions just sucked I went back to the RPC and found it was the ski lacking and not the conditions. Harsh reality and eventual glowing accolades for the RPC (much to my surprise!)



In all my Internet surfing I found two guys describing the RPC as a *115 Lotus* on another forum...which I found intriguing. Marshal Olson and Stephen Drake of DPS were saying the 112RP was a combo of the 138 and the Cassiar 80. All those comments and the newest technology from DPS built into the RPC had me intrigued. My bet is the RPC was the ski DPS was really trying to make when they came out with the 112RP.


DPS sez:



• “The RPC is designed to ski more in the fall line with a shallower turn shape. It’s for the charging, directional skier …who wants to put less emphasis on the RP’s hard snow performance and more on its abilities in crud and soft snow.”



***I found the RPCbetter at fall line/faster mach 1 type GS turns, ski with no lack of hard snow (or ice for their 115mm under foot) performance. I also found them easy to do slow, super tight turns on steep or even really moderate terrain with ease. Little difference in the 112RP and the RPS here it is only a matter of a little (very little) effort.



• “The RPC gives up some of the 112 RP’s hard snow-carving performance and versatility in exchange for enhanced crud busting and speed through powder.”



*** I didn't find that to be the case. I think the RPC has some serious added attributes and literally giving away nothing to the 112RP....other than a more skilled/stronger skier will be happier on the RPC by comparison. Blister's review hints at this btw.



• “The RPC will allow skiers to surf powder in the morning, then charge leftovers all day as they sniff out stashes.”



***this I found spot on.....



Blister sez:



"the RPC is absolutely a Wailer 112RP at heart, as it shares some of the same characteristics that helped put the original RP on the map".



***Not IMO....I think the RPC is best described as a "115 Lotus" Forget all that nonsense about it's connection to the112 RP. Bad marketing on DPS's part IMO.



"I’m not sure I knew what “torsionally rigid” really meant until laying down some blisteringly fast, high-energy carves out the bottom of Alta’s Collin’s face on the RPC. In this respect, DPS’s engineering and construction of the ski is seriously impressive."



I mention Rossi 4G 207s below. It is atorsionally rigid ski is. I had the chance to ski some of the best made for several decades. The 138s and the 112RP are good examples of torsionally rigid skis. The RPC even more so I think. If you want to ski ice...serious ice... get a torsionally rigid ski. Make the skirigid enough and you can even ski ice on a soft boot and 115 under foot.



Blisters' review here:

http://blistergearreview.com/gear-reviews/--dps-wailer-112rpc-2#comment-16640



Follow up:

To prep my RPCs I simply ironed in a thick coat of some spring wax on the Hauscaran and the RPC and took them to the hill. No detune on either and I wouldn't call either ski hooky or even anything close to hooky.




Easy to describe the 112RP as the ski for the guy that doesn't know how to ski powder.....and you'll never have to learn on the 112RP. The ski will simply give you a majority of the skill required. The 112RP is a super easy ski to ski...any where but hard snow. But for me it is a "beginners" ski. I come from old school Rossi and K2 SL/GS 203 and 207 race skis if that helps. The newest (rockered and 5 point shaped) skis have made me a much, much better skier with less effort involved.


Bottom line?




I can rip groomers on the RPCwith literally no speed limit. Big super fast GS turns if I like (and I DO like!) or quick turns straight down the fall line at Mach 1. Easy. Pow? If it is of this ski things are easy. Not as easy or as playful as a 177cm Huascaran but just as playful as the RP in my opinion.Looking for those last tiny powder stashes at your favorite resort? The 4 to 6 turn pockets of the last remaining stash? The RPCwill make that patch and if you work at it add an extra turn in there as well. Yes they are a tiny bit more work than the 112RP. And I do mean TINY! But the advantages the rest of the day are immense. Even if it is just getting between stashes at Mach 1 with a huge smile on your face. Slow speed tight trees or just tight turns? Easy enough...so easy....enough. I am still amazed at just how versatile this ski is. Some of my skis will do most of what I have described.The RPC finally seems like the one "full meal deal".



I am a little stuck on a skied nameda "112" when it is actually 115mm under foot. And I think it is much more ski than the 112RP. More than the 3mm implies.


This is no 112RP. It really is a Lotus 115. Big Mountain? All mountain? The RPC will do both easy enough. "My bet is the RPC was the ski DPS was really trying to design when they came out with the 112RP". The limitations of the 112RP is obvious for the skilled practitioner. I've not noted any limitation on the RPC. And I really don't consider myself a very "skilled" practitioner. I just get to ski a lot of skis.



Heli ski? You bet. I'd be OK with leaving the 138s at home.




FWIW I am skiing the RPC with a Dynafit One boot or the Scarpa Maestrale RS. And I am very pleased with the combinations. More so with the RS and this ski. Makes me think I might be leaving soem on the table here. Which makes me think Lange and down hill bindings.



The RPC isn't my all time favorite ski...but it is damn close. For aresortski on any sort of soft snow? It might well be my favorite ski ever. Either way hard not to get a smile on your face with these guys on your feet. If I am earning my own turns on any sort of soft snow, corn to pow? This ski (even in my 192s) islight enough to consider for any mid winter snow pack, boot or skin mission. You earn the turns might as well savor them.

Cancel the Luau, Winter is Back!

As we approach the month of Juneuary here on Mt. Rainier our weather has done a 180. Monday was sunnywith great corn skiing on the Muir Snowfield, now we are looking at breaking out the powder skis again!








Yesterday, NOAA published a Special Weather Statement reguarding this front moving down from the Yukon. Snow is expected Wednesday thru Friday. So far we have 14" of new snow is on the ground!

Today, 5/23/13 rangers in Paradise woke up to another7" of fresh snow and no sign of it letting up soon. If your a powder hound you will be stoked! If you are traveling to Paradise, Chainsor 4x4 have been required for the past two days.




On the climbing front, this storm system has provided a reset for the mountain. Last week was bluebird andclimbing felt likeJuly. This weekclimbers should be prepared for winter conditions and the subsequent avalanche hazard from heavy snow fall and wind loading.


Further, crevasses are going to be a increasing hazard. The recent warm spell produced significant melt on the mountain with NPS natural resources speculating that 2 meters of snow was lost. Lots of craks have started to open up and combined with this recent snow the possibility for thinly covered and wind-liped crevasses is very high. Be sure to travel in rope teams anywhere on a glacier.



The Climbing Rangers are still on the Mountain and Rainier is open for business. Come up and enjoy the weather.